Victoria Falls - The smoke that thunders
Inspire Me Africa
“You don’t dine out on the adventures that went to plan - you dine out on the disasters - the boat that caught fire, or the day you were mounted by a Spotted Hyena over the festive season”
Quote Source - The Traveller
Lesotho - Botswana - The Gambia
Botswana - The Okavango Delta
It was early morning I was having a quick wash in the river when some local people on the other side of the bank started shouting and waving at me. I waved back. What nice people I thought. Then a page turned over and I realised they were crys of warning; totally forgot about Crocodiles, Hippos. (I am usually alive to animal dangers). I exited the water very quickly and shouted my thanks - they waved back - big smiles of a job well done. You can guess what they were thinking. It was always my mother’s big fear that I would be eaten by a crocodile, which nearly became a self-fulfilling prophecy. I did actually meet a girl who had a very close crocodile encounter, quite terrifying which resulted in her friend being taken. So sad. They did recover her body stuffed under a sunken log (the crocs larder), so take local advice seriously, when they say don’t swim - don’t swim, you don’t know what is out there - they do.
This was an amazing adventure overland from South Africa through Botswana and then through Zimbabwe to Zambia. Kumarka were the overland side. We had some great fun taking a makaro, a dug out canoe made from a tree down the Okavango delta, camping overnight. We tried the makaro, and it is a lot like being a Dragon Boat helm, but without the stability! It’s harder than it looks, so hats off to the boys and girls who make it look so effortless, polling them down the shallow waters of the Okavango.
On one of the Safaris we did a walking Safari, and before we set off we had a lovey talk on safety, which went something like.
“If you see elephant - elephant very angry animal, do not climb tree - elephant will shake tree until you fall out then stamp on you. If you see a Rhino - Rhino very angry animal - but bad eyes and can’t jump. Stay behind a big log or tree. Rhino will go away. (This actually worked in Zambia, when we got cornered by a Rhino against the Zambezi river.) If you see a Hippo - you’ve guessed it - Hippo very angry animal - do not get between a Hippo and the water, go into the bush - Hippo will not follow you. If you see Lion - yep - Lion very angry animal. If you see Lion, do not run, Lion has seen you for the last ten minuets, if you run Lion will chase you and kill you. Stand still - Lion will get bored and go away. All very useful advice.
Oh and don’t wash in the river :-).
Lesotho - Mountain Kingdom
Sitting in a ski lodge at the top on the Sani-Pass is not what you expect in Africa, yet that is what we were doing, and drinking a cold beer to boot. Finding the passport office for Lesotho takes a big of doing to get your official stamp to say that you have arrived in the Mountain Kingdom.
The Sani Pass is really 4x4 country, but we saw locals doing it in a 2 wheel drive saloon, albeit with giant props to lever the car over the rocks and pot holes. Even in our Mitsubishi 4x4 it was hard going, but Sean our driver and friend did an excellent job. The drive up the pass is spectacular, and as you climb out of the tropics, and heat of South Africa, you really do enter a Mountain Kingdom, complete with Ice and snow. Lesotho is seldomly visited, and is off the beaten track. If people do go somewhere different it tends to be to Swaziland - now renamed as Eswatini.
Sani Pass is a mountain pass located in the West of KwaZulu-Natal province in South Africa in the Drakensberg Mountains 2,876 m (9,436 ft). It is a dangerous road* and we would not attempt it without a 4x4 and experience of using one. It consists of a series of winding twists, hairpins and sudden plunging drops and mind-blowing scenery.
*Sadly it’s been tarmacked now, which takes away some of the adventure, but probably quite useful if you are a local just to be able to drive rather than lever your car over it.
The Sani Mountain Lodge we are told is still there and at 2874 meters it is the highest pub in Africa, and one of the highest in the world. Not sure the skiing is on - but the beer is cold and the views drop dead wow! Go soon.
You can check them out on their website and facebook page. ))
The Gambia - Mighty River Gambia
The Gambia is an unusual place in that it is basically a huge river with a bit of land either side and what better way to see the country than from the river itself. The journey didn’t start off great in probably one of the worst places we have ever stayed. It probably didn’t help that we arrived at night to a mud hut, with thatched roof, roasting hot, and a brick bed, (but it did have thin mattress), no water - other than from the bucket, no lighting and as many mosquitos in the mosquitos net than as outside, on account on the bloody great holes in it. Lighting was by candle, and everything else the bucket.
The cooks did a great job of evening meal with massive aluminium pots on log fires, and with the hissing sound of gas lamps (yes we know a luxury) we tucked into a spicy stew of something, washed down with a couple of coolish beers. (probably cooled in the river). Lucky we always carry a head net, so this with the gaffer tape repairs helped to keep the bites down to a respectable number.
In the morning it was a different world, a beautiful and massive expanse of water, dozens of monkeys (sunglasses were their heist item of choice, and they had learnt that they would get banana if they gave them back, or just the fun trashing them if you didn’t feed them). We slept under the stars on the boat, with mossi-nets that worked, and the cook rustled up amazing food from the tiniest galley kitchen.
With the cook singing and happily working away in the galley, we lounged about on deck watching the world go by, whilst the mighty Gambia flowed out to Atlantic Sea, all 1,120 kilometres of it. It was a birding paradise, with violet turacos, (alternatively called the violaceous plantain eater; these are stunning birds) Blue-breasted kingfisher darting in and out, Bruce's green-pigeon,, Senegal coucal, Caspian terns, Red-billed tropicbird, and the weird looking Hamerkops. Great Bitterns, Hadada ibis, the ubiquitous African Fish Eagle, and Wahlberg's Eagle to name but a few.
Lazy birding at its best as we cruised down the river - boat - deckchair - book - binos - beer - birds -Gambia - brilliant!
What can you find in the Museum from these locations.
Lesotho and South Africa
Coins and Banknotes
Geometric 20th c Fabric cushion covers
Pottery Mask
Botswana
Ostrich Shell & Leather Bracelet from the Sani Tribe
The Gambia
Sea and River Shells
Tradition Woven Basket
Traditional 20th c Vintage Mask - actually from Senegal
Coins and Banknotes