“On route to Ice Camp Barneo - Russian floating Ice camp and onward to The Geographical North Pole 90N”

  • Honesty and integrity are hard to find but this gentleman has it in spades. great team too, felt “safe” in their hands.

  • This is the point on which the world spins - its axis. Everywhere else from here is South. It is hard to explain but standing at the top of the world with the whole world spinning at a 1000 mph beneath you is indescribably. The Top Gear show went to the 1996 positionMagnetic North Pole, in Canada which is on land c 900 Miles South of the Geographical North Pole. They started from Resolute - which we have also been to. They didn't make it. Polar exploration is tough.

  • We dedicate this to our mother and mothers all around the world. Most of us never amount too much, but we keep on striving. This saying comes from a 1949 film called White Heat with James Cagney, playing a ruthless gangster when he utters (ironically as he blows himself up) these words. Apart from the “phrase” the similarities between us end there.

    Well there you are - Ma - Made it - On Top on the World. Spinning at 460 meters per second--or roughly 1,000 miles per hour. it is a dizzying experience!

  • OK so it way a “Garmin” but you don’t expect a car type GPS on a jet aircraft. Apparently the AN74 “Coaler” Nato name for this specialist Polar Aircraft didn’t come with one, so why not? Expertly flown and (more importantly) landed at Ice Camp Barneo by Ukrainian pilots. It’s not often you get to fly in the cabin. They had navigator and charts as well.

In 2016 we signed up for the North Pole Marathon - we didn’t get there. The organiser said he would pay for us to come back and take part next year if we got the flights and hotels - crazy fool. He was true to his word. We took part in 2017 and got to the Geographical North Pole - it was awesome!

Like many Polar adventures, although this is probably the “cheapest” way to get to the North Pole - it costs a small fortune. It is worth EVERY penny and then some.

Polar trips are a lot of waiting, waiting for the weather, waiting for the ice conditions, waiting for the Norwegians and Russians to agree - a lot of waiting. And waiting costs time and money, especially in Svalbard our jump off point.

We rebooked and cancel the flights so many times we racked up over £2000 in addition flights alone. Running out of money and time - (we still have to work to pay the bills), we took to sleeping under a table in a hotel (They had no rooms or us any money for them). We were caught and turfed out at 3am. It was desperate stuff. It was -22c outside.

The briefing was intense, films of Chechen paratroopers jumping out an Ilyushin II-76 following a catapillar dozer and 45 gallon drums of fuel down to ice. The idea being that they would bulldoze the ice flat to make a runway - set up camp, whilst long range Mil-17 helicopters would fly in with additional supplies, and provide base support, medical rescue and transport to and from the pole. It was a slick operation. With fuel points set up on route for the helicopters. All for this for just 6 weeks. The window of opportunity when the Polar sun riser and the ice is thick enough and stable enough.

We were briefed on frostbite, and warned not to overheat - heat = sweat - sweat = frostbite. Stay in control was the phrase that was used over and over again. We got the message. We were limited what we could pack, and we told we all went in the same space - people, bags in the front and dogs, fuel and food in the rear of the AN70 STOL aircraft. Allegedly the AN70 can take off and land in as little at 600 meters. It is 1338Km from Longyearbayen to the North Pole, we hope they had packed enough fuel for and back again,

We did our last training runs around Longyearbyen, we didn’t have rifles so we couldn’t go too far, unless we wanted to risk being a Polar Bear supper. There are c 2500 people and c 4000 bears on Spitzbergen. We took excursions when the flight was down to keep busy, No 6 Narrow seem coal mine, Glacier tour in a super Haglands, into a Glacial ice cave, boat trips out to Pyramiden to see the Russians, and even a Ghost town with just one solitary man. Dog Sledding and the really good Museum of Svalbard ate up the rest of the time and cash.

We are defiantly going, but a trip down to the airport to see the AN70 with its covers still on told a different story. Every day it was a new “excuse” weathers closed in, weather has bounced and gone from -38c to -10c, the ice has cracked and they are pumping seawater to stabilise. They have had to both the Ice Camp following a catastrophic failure of the ice. The Norwegians have blocked all flights accusing the Russians of using the camp for military exercises - something the Russians vermently denied. Then suddenly we were all summoned to the Blue Raddison hotel and it was on. We were in Group 2. Tents were assigned and we were told to pack. The buzz and excitement was electric!

We got a message via the SatPhone that the first group were in, and then radio blackout. the organisers had gone with the 1st group, so we had no idea what was going on. Then 36 hours later we were up - we got to the cargo bay of the airport and loaded onto the plane. There were not enough seats so some sat on the baggage. The dogs were quiet in the back with the barrels of Jet A1 fuel and the rest of the supplies.

We took photos of the endless ice from the aircraft - it was cold in side so we sat in winter coats and boots. The interior had been hastily hardboard covered over - presumably to protect it from us. The An70 is a remarkably stable aircraft in flight. We visited the cabin and took a seat in the navigators position. A “Garmin” GPS was stuck to the winds rest screen of the plane, glad to know we had all the tech. The cockpit was a busy place, pilot-copilot-navigator-engineer- loadmaster, but I guess there is not much support where we were going.

Thirty minuets to landing - you could feel the tension in the aircraft as it started to descend. The ice was looking ominously patchy. 2 minuets out - prepare for landing, not sure what there was to prepare for and we had no tray tables, then suddenly moments later the aircraft went to full power and we pulled up and around sharply. One of the crew came in and said “We are aborting”. We all thought it was a joke and gave a nervous laugh at their quirky humour. Nice one. More seriously now - “This is not a joke - we go back to Svalbard”. I guess we would find out if we had enough fuel for both ways.

We will write more about this in later editions and of course we did eventually take part in the Marathon and got to the Geographic North Pole - 90 degrees North - with South everywhere you looked and yes standing on the globe spinning at 460 meters a second, or 1000 mph. It makes you think doesn’t it?

What we Loved

What we didn’t Love

What we would do differently?

  • Hang the expense! Everything we bought here - worked - a lot of the stuff we bought with is didn’t. Kit that worked well was mainly Norwegian - you think us Brits would have learnt something from 1912 - well we did we bought your clothing! Norrona and Devold worked great and we would recommend along with Brynje. For gloves we ended up using thirty year old woollen mittens from lapland with a pair of OR overmitts. kept music warm. Gator facemask an essential.

  • Sure they cost a bit more but we would have saved ourselves at least a £1000 if we had of done. We live and learn. We did eventually wise up and went flex.

  • Part of the problem was we didn’t book a hotel for when we would be at the Pole, on the basis that we didn’t need it. Well of course with all the delay we did. We should have allowed more time at the end eg at least 3-4 days and less at the start.

  • For standing around you need good boots. Our Sorrel ones weren’t up to the job, and if you sweated in them your feet froze. You also had to remember to take the felt liners out to air. We know have better boots - still Sorrel but much better insulation. With boots the bigger they look the more likely they are to work. Our PHD Polar suit performed brilliantly and kept us warm on the standing around days. We wore it at the North Pole as well.

  • Polar travel is unbelievably expensive, and doing it two years on the trot really broke the bank. Delayed flights, canceled flights and additional hotels and food soon racked up the bills. Can’t thank Mr Donovan enough for being true to his word and covering the cost of flights. It is a lot of money. :-). Thank you.

  • Let’s face it - its not like Amundsen spending 2 years drifting to the pole, its a few days - weeks. But when you are regular folk every day in Svalbard is a lot of money. Still we made good use of the time by having the adventure of a lifetime in Svalbard - by spending more money on day trips! Still you can’t win them all, but there is not much of Svalbard we haven’t now seen.

    The bit that did it for us was the excitement of go go go - final packing in the early hours of the morning and getting to the airport to find the aircraft (An AN70) with it’s engine covers on and obviously not going anywhere. We had so many false alarms, and no communication with forward base, so no one had any idea what was happening. In 2016 the first group go in, and we got there bit couldn’t land due to a massive crack across the ice runway - there is no land mass - it’s just sea ice. When the pilot came out and said we were turning around - it was like the biggest joke ever! We all laughed. Except he was serious. We waited days after and eventually ran out of time and money - and had to leave for home with the last remaining amount on our now maxed out credit cards. The disappointment was palpable. I just sat in the corner of the room on the floor with my head in my hands. Dream over - or so I thought.

    2017 - Dream on again!! and yes more delays more disappointment - but that is the realities of polar travel. We did of course eventually get there. having emptied savings / bank accounts and even the piggy bank. Was it worth it? Absolutely!!!

  • Using it at the North Pole is in context the correct use of it - AWESOME - AWSUM - AWSOME - there said it. And yes it was.

Some Polar Facts

  • That’s right it comes up on or around the 21st of March - the start of polar summer and 24 hours daylight and sets on the 21st September the start of Polar winter. This results in only two polar seasons—summer and winter. In summer at the poles, the sun does not set, and in winter the sun does not rise. We have a Russian 24 hour watch in the Museum for use at the poles / submarines when you can’t tell if its 2am or 2pm.

  • There is no land mass just 5ft or so of ice between you and 4000 meters of seawater. We got stuck at the pole for a while so we started the North Pole swimming club. The “pool” courtesy of the Russians was less than a meter deep as any deeper and there is a danger you would into the sea and swept under the ice. To get water into it the Russians used an ice auger for the last two foot. The water steamed as it flooded in, although it was c -4 degrees c, the air temperature was -43c. Swim anyone?

  • When we ran he Marathon we had armed guards around the course, which seems a bit over the top given the location. But Polar Bears have made it camp before and one was spotted by helicopter just 35km from us. They may even have been able to smell the camp from there, cooking, jet A1 fuel, humans. I think they would have been very happy to find human sushi bar running around, now how about that little fat one at the back!

  • We have a lovely chart somewhere showing the anti cyclonic polar drift which takes place at the pole. The ice sheet is constantly moving and via our “Yellow Brick” satellite tracker you can see how each lap of the track steps out from the next - showing the drift. Also whist we slept we moved some considerable distance from our origin point. If you approach the pole from the wrong location you may drift away from it whilst you sleep or struggle against the ice flow. Knowledge in this part of the world is everything.

(All photos courtesy of North Pole Marathon) 2017 North Pole Marathon

(All photos courtesy of North Pole Marathon) No we didn't “win” but anyone who took part was already a “winner” nice to pose with the UK flag. We ran for the RNLI and Harewood Hospital.

(All photos courtesy of North Pole Marathon) Come on in number 9 your time is up. Note little black flag course markers - we have several in the Museum collection along with medal and bib number(s) 2016 and 2017.